For instance, many laser cut imitations have a faint white band near the outer border of the piece. Some authentic cameos will be set in 14K or 18K gold frames. Silver and gold filled metal frames are also common. This is not always the case, however, and many have no settings at all. These frames may also be further decorated with valuable stones, but this, too, is not always true. Weigh the cameo in your hand. Plastic and glass cameos tend to be set in heavy base metals. As a result, they are usually heavier than shell and porcelain cameos.
This is not always true, however, so weight alone is not a good indication of authenticity. Many stone cameos are naturally heavier than their shell and porcelain counterparts, as well. Look at the finish. Turn the cameo in your hand and observe the way the light hits it. A real shell cameo should have a matte appearance rather than a glossy one.
This is true of most carved cameos, in fact, since many natural materials are difficult to buff after being carved. Some authentic stone cameos might be slightly shiny, however, so this is not a foolproof test. Hold the cameo face down and brush the back with your index finger. If the cameo is made from real shell, you should feel a slight concave or curve. Shells have a naturally curved surface, so a cameo carved from a shell will usually have this curve, as well.
The curve might be slight, though. This does not necessarily apply to natural carved cameos made from stones or other materials, though. View the cameo in strong light. With the back of the piece facing you, hold the cameo up against the sunlight on a particularly bright day or up against a strong artificial light.
You should be able to see the entire silhouette if your cameo is made from shell. Note that this is not true of most stone cameos. While somewhat rare, some plastic cameos are similarly thin and may show the silhouette, as well. As a result, this is not a foolproof test when done on its own.
Use a strong magnifying glass to look for marks. You should be able to see faint marks made by the carving tool around the carved portions of the piece.
This is true for all naturally carved cameos. Carve marks will usually follow the lines and curves of the design. Scratches that do not appear to follow these lines are usually just scratches and should not be perceived as an indication of authenticity. Hold the cameo in your hand for 30 seconds or so.
A real stone or shell cameo will feel fairly cool, but a plastic piece will quickly warm up due to the temperature of the room and the heat of your skin. You could also hold the cameo to your wrist or chin. These areas are generally a little cooler than the palm of your hand and may give you a more accurate indication. Gently hit the cameo against your tooth and listen for the sound it produces. It it sounds dull or hollow, it is likely made from plastic.
In contrast, a cameo that sounds fairly solid is likely made of stone or another natural material. Be careful when performing this test. Do not strike the piece against your teeth too hard since doing so could damage your tooth or the cameo. Poke the cameo with a hot needle. Heat a sewing needle over a small flame or under running water, then poke the needle into the cameo.
It will easily melt soft plastic but should not damage shell or stone. Note that many modern resins are too hard and will not be melted that easily, though, so the test may not work. Work carefully to prevent an accidental burn while handling the hot needle. Wear heat-proof gloves or hold the needle with plastic tweezers. Examine the cameo for surface paint or enamel chips.
Examine the paint or enamel on the decorated front surface of the piece. The number deep scratches and chips should be few, if any. Real cameos were made to last, so the design should be fairly intact. This is also an indication of value. Scratched designs cause the value of the cameo to decrease. Ask yourself how new it looks. Even though the damage to the cameo should be minimal, an authentic piece will not look new. Expect to see faded colors, a few light scratches in the paint, and other signs of wear.
As a general rule of thumb, if the painting and the piece itself looks sparkling new, it probably is. Check the cameo under magnification.
Even though there should be few scratches that are obvious with the naked eye, you should be able to see some faint scratches all along the surface under this sort of magnification.
Look for jewelry appraisers at city antique shows, especially those who carry cameos for sale. Not Helpful 2 Helpful Where do I go to get a fair price when selling my antique cameo ring?
Do your homework and research what similar rings are selling for on online sites, at estate sales, and in antique jewelry booths at antique shows. Once you know what fair market value is, then choose a venue to sell it. Realize that unless you have a retail setting of your own, you will not sell at full retail price. Not Helpful 1 Helpful 6. My cameo is at least to yrs old. How do I know if the material is conch or ivory? If it is ivory, it will have become yellow by now; the darker the colour, the older the ivory be careful some people purposefully colour it.
Not Helpful 6 Helpful Not Helpful 0 Helpful 2. What does the marking mean on the back off cameo earings? Answer this question Flag as Cameo with a diamond necklace? The back of the cameo has a pin and c clasp and there is a loop on the top of the frame to use it as a necklace. What does NA mean on the back of a cameo? What does the letter on the back of my pendent mean?
Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered. Already answered Not a question Bad question Other. Tips Consider taking the cameo to a professional jeweler for appraisal.
You can now slowly remove the material from the cutting mat. If you cut on vinyl, you will now need to weed or remove the excess vinyl from around cut design.
To avoid wasting vinyl cut off a square from the larger sheet of vinyl. Use your Silhouette hook to weed away the excess vinyl and expose your design. Over the last three years I have built Silhouette School from a small blog with a few Silhouette tutorials into a full service resource for Silhouette crafters.
I would suggest newbies start with the "New? Start Here" tab and read through the beginner Silhouette tutorials for each type of material and process! Take advantage of the tutorials I have also written a series of Silhouette guide books. Want all the videos for every level, an exclusive ebook on tracing in Silhouette Studio , one on one Silhouette tutoring and help , standing discounts to your favorite Silhouette suppliers?
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